Trip across Newfoundland

Breakfast

A steak and cheese skillet and coffee. That’s the way to start a day.

Attached to the Comfort in was a Jungle Jim’s restaurant (that I have since found to be a chain) that was a good way of starting off the day. Before the ferry let-down I had a distinctive spring to my step. I finally felt like I was on top of the world walking down to hall to the joint.

As a complete aside, taking pictures with a cool digital camera seemed quite strange though with the Kodachrome song playing in the background. I miss film. I miss the look of film. But at this point I can’t give up digital. There’s no way I could even carry enough film for the shots I’ve already taken, let alone whatever other shots come in the rest of the journey.

The Ferry Situation

I talked briefly to someone at the Newfoundland and Labrador Ferry service on a very bad Skype connection off of pilfered Wi-Fi about my situation. It seems that the crew of the ship have some discretion about who gets let on that doesn’t have reservations. I tried to make just a reservation for myself but the connection was too dodgy to continue. It looks like there might be hope to get to Goose Bay. Hope hope hope with me.  🙂

On the road

The more I ride through Newfoundland the more this reminds me of our trip last year to Alaska. It feels like I’m in the foothills to some mountains, but I know that’s not really the case. I guess they are what’s left of mountains from the plates colliding.

Most strikingly fireweed grows here as well. It’s an opportunist that likes poor dirt after a fire. Poor dirt next to the road seems like a good substitute. It might be a weed for many folks, but to me it’s so closely tied to adventure that I can’t separate the two. The vibrant reddish-pink petals of the stalks of flowers never fails to catch my eye. The growing season for it looks to be almost over though; many of the stalks that displayed the flowers are shriveled to stalks of pink filaments that once held the flowers. Some just have a few flowers left on the tops, the rest having served their purpose to spread the “weed” further afield.

Good.

🙂

Road to La Manche

I’m writing this from my camp a the La Manche provincial park. From my reckoning this parks sits furthest East on the island. I’ll be among the first the morning sun will hit tomorrow. That makes me happy.

But before I set up camp, first I had to get here.

Turning off the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) that loops to the North of the island things changed abruptly. On the TCH things were mainly pine forests with many lakes of varying sizes to either side. Terra Nova National Park typified this a lush pine forest framing gorgeous deep blue lakes; lakes that are “Crayola Blue” surrounded by “Forest Green” trees.  (This isn’t like glacier run-off lakes that glow an other-worldly cyan)

After turning south, the world changed. It went from the rich greens to a prairie scrub that wouldn’t look too out-of-place in Wyoming. The difference was countless large boulders that were strewn across the landscape (doubtless from glaciers in eons past). The greens of before changed to more desert-like earth tones. In the background stood prominent outcrops of rock – one of which looks like what I imagine Devils Tower might look like a few million years from now.

Winding my way south to the coast the road turned hilly with far steeper grades than I saw earlier in the day. The last one, the tiny road down to the camp, was almost as steep as Grove Hill in Chagrin Falls, except dozens of times longer. I pity anyone without a motor vehicle to get out of this place.

Dinner

Mmmm… canned Irish stew. Way better than the “Kam” of previous days! A bun from that meal served as a fine accompaniment to the canned stuff. I’m sure it’s not good for me, but <shrug/> what can a guy do? Te freeze-dried food is just as bad for me anyway, and I’m saving that just in case I get into a pinch somewhere (I hope not, but it’s a good cushion)

Signing out,
The Man of La Manche

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Ferry booked?

Well, the ferry from Cartwright to Goose Bay is booked. I’m going to show up early and home someone cancels or they can squeeze me on. When I tried calling a couple days ago they weren’t picking up their phones. How annoying.

Let’s hope this thing works anyway.

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New mirror (kinda-sorta) and current itinerary

Well, back to my house at least. Total damage comes to $100. Oh well… live and learn.

If I can find another from another make that I can Frankenstein on I’ll do it… but I think I’ll be fine until home.

Here’s my plan for the next week. I think this is quite doable without trying to be a hero on the bike. (i.e. I could do it in half the time if I really felt the urge)

Monday: Head most of the way to St. John’s. Camp if the weather’s descent, motel otherwise.
Tuesday: St. John’s. I want to see the Atlantic from as far East on N. America as you can. Some rocks will be collected for interested parties.  🙂  Head half-way back toward Gros Morne.
Wednesday: Easy day. Head to Gros Morne and camp! (should be only 3 or so hours of road time)
Thursday: Head north and camp near St. Barbe (another easy day of exploring the coast)
Friday: Catch the early ferry to Blanc-Sablon (10:30 AM) Start heading to Cartwright. Probably camp near Mary’s Harbour. Collect some more rocks, hopefully some Labradorite, for other interested parties.
Saturday: Final 150 miles to Cartwright. Make it there by 5 or 6 and I’m golden! Catch the ferry to Goose Bay and relax for the trip over!

Off to get some coffee and breakfast and head on over in the direction of St. John’s.

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First ride in Newfoundland!

While waiting for the ferry and afterwards I ran into a couple of other bikers. Shawn on a Yamaha FJR, and the other, Keith, on a Harley Sportster (1200 model). They both seemed like some nice folks. Both of them riding the bikes a long distance either to or from home.

Keith reminds me a bit of my dad in his outlook from what I can tell at this point.  🙂

We both were riding the same direction after the ferry and both landed at the same hotel here in town: the Comfort Inn.

I hadn’t planned on riding for a couple hours in the dark with moose around, but I didn’t have much of a choice. The moment I left St. George’s Bay I was in the middle of nowhere. It was around 50 minutes until we even hit a gas station; the next one was another half hour. It had grown dark while we were getting off the ferry (it made for a wonderful sunset over the water while on the ferry) so I couldn’t really start camping since setting up a camp in patch black painful when you’re not familiar with your surroundings. The next hotel was another hour up the road.

Which brings me here to the Comfort Inn in Corner Brook, Newfoundland!

As a bonus however, I made some good time to my next destination: St. John’s!

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Deluxe Cabin… Deluxe is right

All the pieces are falling into place with the ferry and why I had to get a  cabin to go with it.

The company that runs the ferry service, Marine Atlantic, bought the ship from someone in Europe. It was originally designed for a 28-hour long voyage, not a 6-hour one which is why they made a whole lot more cabins than regular seats. The last couple of spots for people are cabins since they are more expensive – and for what, a 6-hour stay?

I got to my room: room 10001. Before I go into it more, let me break it down. The first 10 is the deck number. 001 is the room number. Deck 10 is the top deck of the ship. This is a deluxe cabin. I’ve been in hotel rooms that are crappier than this!  :-D  Shower, TV, desk, chairs… even a love seat!

Well, as I was wandering around the deck I noticed that the ship’s builder was a German firm and much of the vestigial emergency signage was in Greek. Another quirk is that much of the ship’s electrical seems to be continental European, plugs and all. The most recent owner was an Estonian firm. I guess they rechristened it the “Atlantic Vision” when they got the ship.

Marine Atlantic is in the process of building a new dock in Argentia so they can use the big boat (that goes faster) to do the presently 14 hour trip in only 10.

We’ll be departing in around 25 minutes and the total time sailing is going to be around 4-1/2 hours. Time to take some pictures and a quick nap I suppose.

TTFN

Well, we are around 7:30 Newfoundland time and I think we’re going to be docking in around an hour or so.

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Waiting for the ferry

I have a few hours to piddle away until I get to board the ship. It should be around a 5 or 6 hour sail to get to Newfoundland.

I do have one casualty to report. In a fit of bad footing getting off the bike tipped gently to the right. As I kept it from hitting the ground the right mirror gently hit me. I wasn’t seemingly as gentle with the mirror since the moment it hit me it broke off.

So now I have no right mirror until I get home probably. Total cost of the new mirror is going to be around $70 shipped to me. Oh well.  :-/

Nothing hurts except for my pride.

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Nova Scotia and the Glooscap and Cabot Trails

Heading off back towards Sydney I eventually stopped to get some gas. While at the pump a pair of old bikers on Harleys pulled up to some other pumps. They had on Nova Scotia plates so I had to ask one “if there’s one thing to see in Nova Scotia, what would it be?”

Started the drive and after I got into Nova Scotia I decided to take a look at the Bay of Fundy. To get there the road signs were pointing to the Glooscap Trail. So I took the right of the trans-Canada and started going on Highway 2. Its a pleasant drive through rolling countryside with gentle sweeping curves. It reminds me of much of southern Ohio with the farms dotting the sides of hills and horses and other livestock grazing on the grass.

Pausing for a moment to take some pictures on a lake I started chatting with a old fella and his wife. We talked about my trip and bike for a bit. Turns out he used to live up in the Yukon, where we’d gone last year, and finally moved back home to Nova Scotia where he was born.

“You always have to go back to where you came from.”

Just past noon I went into the Glooscap Family Restaurant (where I’m writing this now). A bunch of other bikes parked in front of it drew me in. I’m still waiting for the food – I ordered a flounder burger since that’s the special. The waitress says it’s good. However the kitchen is either really backed up or otherwise really slow. I’m not sure, but I’ve been waiting here for around a half hour now.

After I get some food in me I’ll head a bit further down the road to see the Bay of Fundy.

The nice thing is I’m not that worried about time right now. I don’t have anyplace to be at the moment since I’m not due at the ferry for over 24 hours – and I’m only 4 hours away from it.

I’m thinking of making some progress towards the ferry this afternoon and camping at one of the many parks that are all along Nova Scotia.

Well, the food came and sure enough it certainly was a good sandwich. I still, for the life of me, have any idea what took so long to fry up fish and some French fries.

After wolfing down the sandwich I headed down the road (much to the Zumo’s consternation) to see the water. Precariously parking the bike on a slight grade I got off and walked down to the water. I made sure to stick my foot (well, a booted foot anyway) into the water. I even tasted it. Ocean water. Just like the pasta I boil back at home – It’s good to occasionally recalibrate one’s senses.

He contemplated for a moment, pausing the filling of his bike, then looked up.

“The Cabot Trail. It’s a nice windy route that goes through some nice country.”

So, taking the old biker’s advice to heart I aimed my gaze (and the Zumo) in the direction of Cabot Trail. I have time to blow anyway so what’s another little sojourn?

Slightly before I got there I happened on a campground that I had loaded into the GPS before: Whycocomagh Provincial Park. It’s a beautiful campground that overlooks Bras d’Or Lake. I picked a spot high on the hill and set up my tent. First off I made a quick dinner to mirror last trip: Ramen and Spamburgers. Not real span though – imitation Canadian Spam: Kam. Kam sucks. As much as you think Spam isn’t the best food on earth. Kam is horrific. Do not under any circumstances buy it.

The Ramen was good though. A nice predictable bit of sustenance.

The sun went down early it seems. It was pitch back by nine. It must be where I am in the time zone. I’m guessing I’ll be waking up to sunrise at five.

“You always have to go back to where you came from.”

Good or bad? I don’t know. My dad went back to where he came from and he seemed happy. Though he visited all the time as well.

Do I want to grow old in Cleveland? If pressed I’d say no.

Who knows how life turns out…

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Newfoundland/Labrador Ferry

Well, they don’t seem to answer their phone… I think I’ll have to try back later.

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Day 4 – Ferry reservations

I suppose I should have called sooner… but I didn’t. The earliest ferry to cross over to Newfoundland is tomorrow at 3:30PM. I was hoping to hop on over tonight on their 11:30PM crossing, but that’s all booked up. I’ll try again later to see if someone cancels. I guess this forces me to explore Nova Scotia a bit more. Maybe this is the sign to slow down a bit now.

Speaking of which, I should probably reserve the ferry crossing to Goose Bay too.  😉

Now that I have a bit of time on my hands, I’m pulling the data off the Zumo now so I can put all that on a map.

Look at my trip in Google EarthTrip Part 1

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Day 3: For real this time

Leaving York Beach was a pretty simple thing. Packing everything up went as quick as I had expected and everything was on the bike in around 10 minutes. (Actually, this is one of the advantages of camping: you don’t have to lug a ton of crap from your room to the bike – it’s all right there!) I had a warning from a fellow camper that US-1 was going to be slow.

I tried to follow US-1 the whole way but that wound up to be a very time-consuming prospect, just as I heard. The road wove in and out of many small towns along the coast with people who couldn’t drive. Driving by Kennebunkport turned out to be the highlight – if for no other reason than I now know where the Bush clan summers. It’s good to put a location on something you hear on the news all the time.

So I hopped on the freeway/turnpike. That saved a bunch of time, even if it was being traded for less interesting scenery.

I realized I needed some breakfast and coffee – mainly the coffee – and took an exit the Zumo told me has some restaurant. The Garmin, while knowing the lay of the land pretty well, doesn’t really know about the things on the land. I wind up looking around for things it didn’t find as much as listening to what it did find. I happened upon a little diner – Dave’s Diner to be specific and got breakfast and the much needed caffeine. It was fun striking up a conversation with the manager and one of the regulars about motorcycles. The customer’s dad showed up later on who was a biker from another era.

He gave me a thumbs-up through the window as I pulled out.

+1

Back to the freeway (it really was free this time) for a few more exits and got off – headed for Bar Harbor this time. Or “Bah Hahbah” as the locals say.

After I got back on US-1 further north it wound up to be a blast! I didn’t stop to take pictures, but it was fun going in and out of the small town with less traffic this time. Looking to my right I could see the Atlantic peek through the trees now and again.

As I grew nearer my destination I took a quick left off the coast onto Maine 191.

This road reminded my of the Cassiar from last year. A mildly twisting, little used road through logging country.

What a fun road that was! I stopped once to take some pictures. I think I picked the best place to stop since it was the best scenery of the road. 🙂

Eventually I got to the border. It was slow. And I was searched. Well, the bike was. Turns out I’m not trying to smuggle anything into Canada.

Finally got on the Trans-Canada highway and aimed the Garmin at the Bay of Fundy. Nature didn’t cooperate however. The closer I got, the worse the weather got. I scrubbed plans for that and set my sights on the Comfort Inn in Moncton. Eventually I was in a full-on thunderstorm. Not fun.

I stayed dry though.

I managed to the get last room at the place. Only because someone next in line was canceling a room. Timing is everything.

Ordered a pizza. (only so-so… but it still tasted good after the ride over)

Uploaded pictures.

CLICK HERE FOR THE PICTURES

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